No. 9 Bukhoor Elixir de Parfum

Bukhoor, or bakhoor as it is sometimes known, is the Arabic name for woodchips that have been soaked in precious essential oils, mixed with shards of frankincense and other resins, and finally pressed into soft, brownish bricks to be smoked slowly over an incense burner. All over the Middle East, bukhoor is burned generously to banish domestic smells of cooking and to make the home smell warm and welcoming to visitors. Bukhoor, Thomas Kosmala's take on the theme, honors its source material by being rich, smoky, and pugnacious, with an Arabic personality that's surprisingly authentic. The animalic bite of aged Hindi oud hits the nose first, its characteristic aroma of raw leather, and slightly dirty hay burning a blaze across the olfactory landscape. The scent mellows considerably in the base, where it takes a turn for dry and smoky, a smoldering woods note infusing the atmosphere with the marvelous scent of burnt paper, benzoin, and brown sugar. A bold, no-holds-barred take on an ancient material, and one that proves Kosmala's skill in handling it.